From: John Pinkham
Date: Fri, 20 May 94 12:03:16 EDT

For those who don't see the Norton News, it has some nice gizmos that might make life easier.

1. An oil filter adaptor which allows the use of common auto filters instead of the Crosslands which cost $9-12 US. The adaptor is simply an
internally threaded nipple. Cost: $10 + shipping. British Bike Connection, 58 Merwin Avenue, Rochester, N.Y. 14609 (716) 288-4546.

2. Exhaust flange nut wrench (Schraubenschussel fur Auspuffrohr Flansch Schrauben) Fits the spark plug wrench for extra leverage. Fits in the tool kit. Also opens inspection covers without damage. Cost:$28 including shipping. Herr George Scholtz, 304 West Main St.,Grand Junction,Colorado 81505 (303) 243-6772. ALso makes oil filter bases for pre-73 Commandos.

From: John Kula
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 94 00:11:20 PDT

To: BRIT-IRO--INTERNET brit-iron@indiana.
 

• Keep the Mark III vernier isolastics, excellent rear disk (although it would have to be switched left), beefed-up swingarm and perimeter-screw primary chaincase (if you can find a matching bottom end with the four mounting points). Dump the "electric start" (a well set-up and kept Commando will start no worse than 2nd kick 99% of the time anyway).

• Get a 1964 Atlas gear cluster (the last of the case-hardened gears) and an ME outrigger bearing for the gearbox to help with the load. Five gears are unnecessary given the motor's grunt, and Quaife's set-up doesn't change the bottom or top ratios (not to mention the price). Replace the clutch plates with half phosphor-bronze and half Barnett. Then add a good belt drive (Tony Hayward's is the best to date). A clutch that is good enough for T.C. Christensen's double-engined Hogslayer should do just fine thank you.

• Remove the chrome from the disks, drill and chamfer them and then copper-plate them. Use a double front disk if you like. Stainless steel hose, of course.

• Hard chrome the fork tubes, replace the springs with triple-rates and put 40 weight oil in for stiffness. Then a good fork brace (Hyde's is excellent) and any wobble will be gone.

• Throw away the handlebar switchgear and replace with something less medieval.

• Throw away the wiring harness and do it all yourself with 10, 12 and 14 gauge wire and copper spade connectors soldered on.

• While you're at it, dump the regulator for a solid-state affair (get a military-spec component).

• Replace the alternator with a high output triple phase (it'll require an extra zener, but hey, what price electric-free worries?)

• Mount a Boyer, a couple of heavy-duty coils and a good (Fiamm) horn with relay.

• While yo're at it, an 8" headlight shell will throw more light than twin 5" headlights, and look more proportional to boot.

• For a nice little twist, replace the side reflectors with those little battery-powered strobe lights that cyclists use.

• Get a gas tank that'll hold at least 3.5 Imperial Gallons.

• Get a pair of those special vibration-dampening gloves that are now hitting the market.

• The camshaft may need some work (the Mark III especially is soft and will wear in 1/8" chunks).

• Megacycle does an excellent job of hardening, and also smooths out the power curve so there isn't a big kick at 4500 RPM.

• Put roller bearings in if you're patient.

• Carrillo make unbreakable rods and Arias have wonderfully slippery pistons (you should _see_ them next to the Hepolites!).

• Balance the crank (ask Mick Hemmings what factor he uses :-).

• Flow the head, lighten the valve gear.

• Replace the mufflers with stainless peashooters for low restrictivity and use stainless fasteners everywhere.

• If you _must_ add an oil cooler, get one with a thermostat because the engine generally runs quite cool all by itself and you don't want to overdo it.

• Add an oil pressure gauge for sure; maybe a temperature gauge too.

Meet MacBeth :-)

John Kula Commando 930 (MacBeth)

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